The Choquequirao Trek is a fantastic alternative to the Inca Trail
Choquequirao
As the early morning mist lifts we set off again, high on the valley side, with stunning views over the vast Apurimac canyon, orchids, bromeliads and lichens lining the way. It’s a gentle meander to Choquequirao and our legs are glad of the temporary respite on this rolling section of path. We take time to wander, exploring the corners of this beautiful Inca site, which we have to ourselves. We’ve only seen a handful of trekkers along the way.
It is thought Choquequiaro was constructed during the reign of the 9th Inca emperor Pachacutec, dedicated to the sun, the water and the apus (mountain gods). The site boats long terraces, temples, a main square, ceremonial platforms, palaces, houses and water canals. The location is dramatic, spectacularly constructed over a ridge high above the Apurimac gorge, snow peaks all around. Condors soar overhead and you may be lucky and see a spectacled bear.
Onwards to Yanama
This is the point at which many trekkers turn around and go back the way they came (a 5 day journey), but we head onwards (… to the small village of Yanama , end of this trek route. From there you continue to Machu Picchu (7 days).)
A short climb of 200m took us over a pass (3200m), followed by a long descent to the Rio Blanco at a tropical 1900m, with a stop off to explore the recently cleared Inca terraces at Pinchaunuyoc. This gushing river is ideal for a cooling dip, to soak hot tired legs, and feet. You won’t want to get out.
With energy replenished it’s time to tackle the ascent to Maizal at 3,000m, half-way up the valley side, and next camping spot. We get into the swing and each develop a little mantra to help us keep going up and up and up. Maizal is a one house stop off, where a local family farms some cattle high up here on the valley side. They plant a few crops and eek out a sparse existence.
Early next morning a final climb through verdant,flower rich, cloud forest brings us to highland paramo, on to a beautifully constructed stone Inca trail, past old Inca silver mines, to the San Juan pass at 4,150m. From here you look upon the fabulous ice-covered massifs of Pumasillo and Choquetacarpo ahead. This is the highest point of the trek, tropical valleys behind, Andean peaks ahead, with stunning views all around.
The final few kilometers bring us into the small town of Yanama (3,500m), where cold beers are on hand. It feels like the hard work is well and truly over, time to relax and reflect on the glorious journey just completed and look ahead to the next leg. A new road connecting Yanama and Santa Teresa means that the next leg is by vehicle.
My top tips for what to pack for the Choquequirao trek are:
- Take long sleeved light weight shirts and trekking trousers as it can be hot, the sun is strong and there are biting flies.
- Take sunblock and good insect repellent.
- A sunhat is useful as there is little shade.
- Take at least 2 liters of capacity for water and purification tablets.
- Take walking poles.
- Comfortable walking boots and socks (I love bamboo socks in the heat) are essential as this trek is tough on the feet.
